Button-hole-stitchinq machine



4 Sheets- -Sheet 1.

(No Model.)

J. W. LUPKIN.

BUTTON HOLE STITOHING MAQHINE.

4 Sheets-Sheet 2. J; W. LUPKIN. BUTTON HULB STITOHING MACHINE.

Patented Jan. 11, 1-887.

1w Model.)

bill

Jam wzz k w 7 I (No Model.) 4 sneens- 'sht a.

J. W; LUPKIN.

, BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MACHINE.

No. 355,878. Patented Jan. 11, 1887".

n 5" %a; 4/16, gun/4.174 9 9, 7 @036 4 Sheets-d1eet 4.

(N0 Mbdel.)

J. W. LUPKINL BUTTON HOLE STITOHING MACHINE.

Patented Jan. 11, 188?.

L ra

Win-1 E E 5 E 5 UTATQLLS i iwiiim? @i iiiQE.

J'GHN Vi". iTUi K-ill 0F WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSITTS.

BUTi'ON-HOLE-=$TlTCHlNQ MACE-NE.

EPECIPICATIDN forming part of Letters Patent No. 355,878, dated January Applicaiion llllil DEM ember 19, H85. Si-i-ial No. 156.152. (Nu ll mil-l.)

To all whom. it may concern.-

Be it knew! thus I. JOHN W. LUFKXN, of iviiicliesti'i', county of lliilillesex. uml Slate of Mnsszu-lmsei is, have iiivmiti-il an improvement in Buiton-Hole-Stitching Machines, of which the following (liSCllpilOll, in connection i'i'itli tli'e accompanying drawings, is aspeciiicziiion, like leiierion the drawings representing likq parts.

Tilifi invention has fur its abject i0 improve ihe sonstruction of that class 0f button-hole;- stiiching machines wherein the cloth or otlit material containing ilie 5019.01 slitbe be averj stitched is carried by a champ, which move's the material ,uiifier the needle in such maimed as to present the entire eiige 0f the slit to "the needle. Herein the iippsr thread ifs-carried by 1i. needle held in a iieeiilc innuvhich is made to resign-ovate in :i pivotmi imifl which is vibrated at suit-able. intervals to enable the needle to descend first tin-{nigh .lie iimieria-i at the desirca tilil' fi b: -2; fwz-n iii; edge, and hen over the AL .giize under .iin'eiil' being cmi-ieci by 1.00pm having r-u apex-Ming wit-"l1 it :i. spreader. A Y

My iiii'eiilion in iJlEi-iOll ll0l-$iili fllill mm chines consists in ii heaplaie having a. recessed hiiii and 0. iE-BLi-ii-llG-l ymvideii it its upper side wit-l1 a. gmvve and a2 is under side with three gmovcs and :1. swit-zli, combined. with means in aiiiunmiically while (h said feedwheel at. one spue'l wliilli illB sti lit sides of the bui iO i-hflk are being siiiicheii, amiatiwo different spams while iii-J ends of ihe buttoir hole are being stitched, ihc iimvemenfi of the "said feed while the smail and if 011% buttonhole is being stitched lining faster than when either the straight-si6les or the large end of the but-toiiliole an: being stitched, as will be (19/ scribed; alsmin a lJi'ati-01i-l1ele-s$itchi11g 1221.- cn'ine, a bed-plate having a recessed hub and a feflilil' lififil provided with 23. groove and iaws (logs czizi i 'ed by the said i'eed-wiieel, anda. clamp to 'imlii the materiai to be stitched, the said. clamp having a. stud to enter the said grouve, combined with two plates having be tween them a space an substantially semisir ciilar is! m, but 0i" diifez'ei'm iadii i'liei-eay film clamp is enabled i0 have :1 full r otaiion by the actien of the ieeiiwlieel, substantiziily sis will be described.

Qiher features of iizveiitien relate 6 :2

means for operating llic ncegllmlmr, ancl the combination, wiili a. needle and needle having a movmuenfi at right; angles to the length of the limbplzitn, 01' a. horizontally ssliding and lOt-il'iillg -cliu1i1i,such' as will be :19- si zi'ibedg also,t0 certain improvementsin means for operating the louper and the spreader...

Figure 1. in side'elevai-ion pzniially broken.

Elie spreader-moving cam; Fig. 5, 1i sectinnal 7 detail showing Lhelooper-moviug cam; Fig. 6, atop 01' plan view (if :i piece of material providml with button-holes shaped and stitched in (imam-(lance with my invention; Fig. 7 a top viewof ihs bed of the machine, il e movable; 7 clamp being removed; Fig. 8, amp view of the parts shown in Fig. Z, with the inner and miter guide-plate removeii. Figs. 9, 9 are seetionnl details of devices instrumental in moving the feed-wheel; FigJO, an underside view of the feedwvlieel; Fig. i1,-a. plan View of the cloblizcarrying clammifig. 12, a partial secticm Of tll 51mm in the cioiated line as; Fig. 13, a detail of the upper ai m of-the clamp;

Fig. 14, a detail showing the uiicier arm of the :35v

clamp; 1+ ig. l5, a dei ail of the damp-base with the cevaringpla'te Of the clamp detached there from. Fig. 16 showsa cr0ss-sectien of a part of zlie top arm ofisiie clamp, ihe said fiection being taken thi'Qugb; the proj action 2? theirmn.

Fig. 16*is a. detail shaming the inner eiiii of the u r- 1* s PiOJGGLiOXl 2. and para, 0i aha mm ii iainwhich it is attaclae; Fig. 17 an under side WNW 0i ills serrated jaws 9f 1511a upper arfiis. ii, the

mid jaws being pmitteti fmin the said arms. 5

Fig. 18 simw g the hub about; whichl'otamwhe feed-whee as developed ha a'piane surface to show the recess therein 19, a flat-ail mt the tinny-plate; Fig. 2-0, :L View hfiiheregulaiiiiigle'v'ar detached. Fig. shows in two views :02:

the arm located under iiie pawl-carrier. to be desimibeii. Fig. 21": shows in three: difierani pesitions the pawi-cai rier Wiiil ttiegersws thereis its attached spring. 23 show :i detail, 65

operating com a. end, is provided Wltlt'tt disk, it, having at its vtwo different views of the pawl detached from the pnwtcnrricr. Fig. 24 is it detail showing part of the bertplnto, part of the feed-wheel, the pnwl for moving it, the pnwtcnrrier, and lever 20, together with the sorews or stops, to be referred to; and Fig. 25, on nsnialler scale. represents nnother viewpt' the top of the feedwheel, its dogs, and the recessed hub.

The bed A has attached to it an overhanging arm, A, having bearings for the vertical shaft; A and the ncedle-bnr-nctuuting shaft AC. The shuft A, as herein shown, has upon its rear end :1. friction-gem, A. driven by a frietioirpulley, A"', the snid pulley being mounted upon a movable stud, as described in United States patent granted to me August 10, 1886, to which refer-mice mny be had, whereby the rotation of the shaft A." may be nutonurtienlly stopped at the completion of cneh button-hole. The shaft A has upon itn bevelgear, a,whieh engages n bevel-gear, a, on and rotates the shaft A, being provided at itslowerend with the spreader-iipernting com a? and the loopcr- The shaft A, at its front face a eranlephnou whit-h is placed a link, a, the lower end of which is fitted to it stud, n. secured to the netdlebnr (1.", provided at its lower end with'nn eyepointed needle, a". The needle-bur u is titted to slide up and down in. guides b '11, projecting from the front side of the head b, pivoted at I) to an ear, I), on the ernr A.

The bond bf is provided with e slot, 1), in which is ndjustnbly placed the screw-stud 1", to which is attaohedthe iinklf', in turn adjusttthlf" attached by the bolt or stud b to an car,

20, at the forward end of the vibrating, leverb, pivoted. at if", and forked at its rear end, as shown in Fig. 1", to embrace the cum c,fnst to the genr a. The stud b is inndemljustnble in the slot: 0 of theenr 20 by the bolt if, to insure the proper central position of the needle in the necdleihront c", the :u'ljustment' of the stud I," in the slot, 1) riuisiiu, more or less la ternl throw of the needle nwny from the center oi the throat, according to the material to be stitched and the distance back from the edge of the slit; that: the material is to be covered by the stitch, The head ofthe stud b is made oval (see detail, Fig. 1") to receive the end of i e link b", nttnched to the stud if, to permit he necessary oscillation of the said link as v is requisite to move the head 1: from the lever fl) wit lioutcramping; of the parts.

ll'crein the linked is so pivoted us to vibrate at right angles to tliebed-pinte A. rather than in the direction of the length of the sold bed-plate, whereby when finch imp of the kind herein to be described is fthnde to hold or move the cloth or other material the said elem-p maybe stopped at the front of the nmchine or between the needle-lituend the operator rather than nti'ho rear oi the needle-bur, sis heretofore common.

Stoppihg the clump, as herein provided for, and as will be described, enabler-a it to be left in the position it must oecupynt the oommeueenrent of the next button-hole to be made, and thereby the operator is saved the trouble of withdrawing the usual-elmnppm and puying the clamp around for half a turn to t re front of the bed-plate or to the front side of the needle-bar of the machine.

The disk at the end of the shaft A has ated to it a eam-hub, d, the groove otiwhich receives a roller-stud, d, of the take-up lever d", pivoted at d, for the needle-thread.

The bed-plate A is out through, as shown at Fig. 3, to leave a central hub, 12, about which is made an annular recess of' sufiicient depth to receive the feed-wheel d", the upper side of which is shown in Fig. 8 and the under side in Fig. 10. The hub 11* has two recesses. 5 6, one being near the top of the said hub and the other nenrthe bottom thereof, as shown in Fig. 18, wherein the hub is'lnid out as a plane surface. This feed-wheel, at its upper side, has

what is called a heart-shaped cam-groove, 2, (see Fig. 8,) which receives in it a pin or stud, e, attached to the base 6 of the clamps C, the snid stud (shown in the said figure 'in section as cut oil from the clamp) having a. roller thereon, the rotation of the feed-wheel by the pawl c engaging the ratchet-teeth at the periphery of the feed-wheel causingthe said groove to move the clamp longitudinally as when stitching along the sides of the button-hole, the stud e at such times resting in one or the other oh the Straight parts of the groove between the plntes m and m',-the said straight parts by their shoulders temporarily arresting the rotation of. the elnmp while the heartcmu moves the clam p lougitud-i not I y, and when the longitudinal movement has been completed the stud enters one of the circular ports of the groove between the said plates, and thereafter the clamp is rotated substair tinlly half aturu, a semi-rotation of the clamp after each side of the button-hole h'ns'bcen stitched being effected by means ot'dogs or followers 3 at, carried by the feed-wheel vi, the dog 3 engaging the st ud e as the large end of the button-hole is presented to the needle, and holding onto the said stud and causing the clamp to be rotated in unison with the feedwhcel until the large eye of the button-hole is completed, when the said dog, in its rotation with the t'eedwvheel and in contact with the outer side of the hub d, arrives opposite and enters the recess 6, out in the said hub, (see Figs. 8, 18, and 25,) the said recess (see Fig.

18) being made in the said hub at a short dis-' tanee-below its top. The dog 3 out era the said recess 6 and releases the stud us soon as the said stud reaches a. position in the straight part of the slot between the plates m in, at the opposite side of the needle-hole, the large eye by that time having been stitched, and the said stud having" been released. from the dog 3 the earn-groove 2 again, by its action on the stud 0, causes the plump to be moved 1ongi- Ludinnlly to present the second side of the liutton-hole to the needle, the said cam continuing to move the clamp for its full throw,

ascent; and desoenl: oi

the full throw of thesaid cam completing the full longitufilnel movement of the damp 'TlllS having been Gone, i remains to finish the smell end of the bnttonilole and lean in mono instead. of 'square and will; lie edge ovemfiilofiod, which is one of the chief objects of vni y" present, invention. To do this the dog or follower 4, carried by zlie feed-wheel "and resting at that time with its inner against She periphery of incline 1Z3 meele Elie S JLid e, and the toe or projection of the sold dog 4-, extending into or across the heart-cam gioove 2 and acting against the said lat-ml, em riee the clam with in, giving it substantially e quarter-rotation to bring the center port of ilwsmall end of the hole under she needleend WM! the largo port; of the hole directly in from oithe operator, at which time the jaws of the clamp are operated by the operator to reieeee llle work, and the melerial is then movezi along in one clamp to the nexo hole and reolempede Elie work having been clamped, the stitching eommeneed as the center of the smell end of time beam-hole, ami the eemicironlm' movemen'e of the clamp by the dog 4 against, the

.tsiaiid ale ooofiinned by again slam 15 the feedwheel, and as soon as the saui clamp has ye .oeived o. qua'z-lter-tum, so as to living the mesteriel nnolernhe needle at @he-sbi'elglat glee of hole near th snmilend and we clamp is &o bemovefl longitudinally, the dog 4 amines in position opposite the recess 5, out into the top of 112 hub (2. As soon as the remside of the (log .4 eri'ives in position opposite the re was 5 we stud e, by itepressnre agaln sl the i 'ogmdefi port of the we of the dog 4', pushes lge said-flog into the said recess 5, as in 25, fat: enough to release Hie said stud, the said dog traveling in the geld recess 5 as the fee- L wheel is rotaied, it being again pushed out however, by contact with the periphery-of the hula d4, as at 124, (see rig. 8,) before t-ne dog a ieagain toeng-nge the sun 6.

The-'feefimjheol d has to be rolete l twice during thestitclxing of eaell button-hole. This fem-wheel at its under side has two DEANS/"- semicircular grooves, ff, in az'es'of lllii'erent eireles,'(see .Fig. 119,)the gnoovef being the largelx These two grooves are joined by an intermediate emssgroove, f, there being two switches, f f, at. the junction of the sold orossgroove with the groovosfzmdj". These groovee are shaped, as shown in Fig. 10, to automatically'efieet variations in tho-speed of rotation of the feedwiieel, and consel' uently the ex tent of movemens of we clamp between eaon E the neel'lleyzis it will be obvious; is neeessm'yio enable. the stitches at both the large and small of the bnjio F3018 to be spaced to correspond will; the st lobes at the sides of ilze button-hole. the speed of movement of the feed-wheel olaxnp being slowest while the sides of the bullion-hole are being stitched, :illiltle ililsier while we large cm! is being stitched, and yet fesfier while the small end is being Slf-lllx'bllflfi. As, for inslenee, inn-lie machines herein illustrated the pawl e" moves llw l'oml-wlieel'ovez' a distance eqnel to live teeth at each stroke while the side ol the llllilfilbllOlll is being 5 tolled; illlll ovei'aspece equal to seven teeth while we large end of the button-hole is being" stitched. and over espace eqrml lo ton leelh while tlaesmnll end is being B'l-llZQllQil; but it, will be nmloa'slood tlmtthis difillem-rim 1.4, and having lhe said stud13' for ils fulcrum, is llinehorl- M11114, (see Figs. 5 if and 21,) ll, having at its end a stud, 15, n'liioll extended down through the curved slot 1 5, (see Fig. 2,) where the said stud by a snilable screw, or, in other usual manner, has joined ":0 it llle eml of the connecting rod 9,

filled over Elie crank-pin g'on lahodisk or plate A 7*, no he eiltreine lower eml of the shaft A. The flank-pin moves the connecting-rod g and normally gives to the arm 14 a uniform throw, which in extent is auflieleni; to effect; through fine arm 12- :iml pan! 6* lie maximum movement of we feed-wheel as when the small of the blllLlIGlE-hfilfi ie being stitched.

The arm 1 in provided with a projection,- iu, heroin svliown as We head ofascremwhieli projects noove and eonstltl'luee a, shoulder to strike against llze "rear side of and move the pimlcarrier 12 positively forward "The forwnr-fi stroke of Llie said pawl is always to the some poi nt out its backward ebi'olieis variable by means of adjusting-screws l8 iihwhicln by their positions in the pawlcarrier, may be made in strike sooner or later against tlaeonter side ofthe regulating-lever 2 (see Figsl 3 8, 2G, and 24,) having a. zollr stgul, 21, which enters the grooves in the under si'leof the feedwlwel d. I

The stud-13 has coiled Loosely about it e spring, 22, see Figs. 9, 2L 22, and 2%,) both endsei' which are exlumled outwardly ln'ongh SlO-S in the hub of she arm 32 one end of the spring being bent lo enter a hole in the stud 23, fixed to ilie mm 14, the other end of the snnlsprlng being bent to form a. project-ion which enters a.- hole in the arm 12, the said spring normally noting tokeep Llle X'Qfil side of the said mm 12 agains'o the stop 17. iii hen the roller-stud ill is in the gi'oovej', om lever 20 is so moved that its and illiQSlS the l]&(3lfiward throw of the pawl-carrier 12 by striking said lever 2G lilo leialseiscrew striking we sold st ll a screw 18, so thatitdoes not parfeed-wheel over a greater distance to enable the largceud ot the button-hole to be stitched. When the roll 21 is in thecross-groove f, the lever 20' is so turned us to place its outer end in such position that the pawl-carrier l2 partakcs of the full movementof the arm 14 and the feed-wheel is given its maximum' stroke, as when the small end of the button-hole is being stitched. \Yhcn the buttonholc is to be commenced, the roll 21 will rest midway the calls of the cross-groove f. The feed-wheel will be started, the roll 21 will pass from the said cross groove into the groovef, and follow along the same into the groovef past the point of the switchf", and, hitting the heel S'thoreot, will turn the said switch from its full into its dotted line position,

Fig. 10, and, passing along in the said groove,

the said roll will strike, move, and pass the switch ff, thus closing'the cross-groovef, and the roll 2.1 will puss-trout the groovef into the groovef, this being the second entrance of the said roll into the said groove, the first entrance being as the first side of the buttouhole was being stitched, this second entrance being mudejust as the second side of the said hutton-hole is to be stitched. The roll 21 as it passes from the groovef the second time does not enter the groovef, nor can it, for the switch f closes the said groove, and consequently the said stud is forced to enter the cross groovej" to its point 0! starting. the roll 21 passes the heel 8 of the switchf", it acts thereon and turnsthe said switch back into its full-line position. I

The full parts of the external diameter of the stationary huh d not to hold the dogs 3 and 4, connected to and rotating with the feedwheel, outiuto the groove 2 toengage the stud c, the dogs rclcaeiu; the said stud when opposite, respectively, the recesses 6 if desired, 1 may employ the adjustable screw 11, Figs. Sand 21, to determine the maximum backward throw of the pawl'earrier 12, and to prevent overthrow or movement-of the feed-wheel 11", i have added the adj ustablc screw 11', which acts upon the pawl n at the end of its forward st rokcl The base a of the clamp has secured to its upper side the bracket it, upon the outer end of which is hinged the U-shaped block It, to which, by screw h, is attached} he upper U shaped arm, h, (see Ijig. 13,) ot' the oath-holding clamp. The lower forked arm, '11., (see Fig. 14,) is attached to the block it by the screw 11". The upper side of the lower arm is serrated to engage the cloth or other material, and to assist in spreading open the button-hole slit and keep the materiai from slipping, and one oi these arms, as well as thejaw about to he described, is pro vidcd with a groove, 33, (see Fig. 14,) to receive and permit the free movement of the under thread therein as a second button-hole is commenced, (one button-hole haviug'becn finished and the material unelainped, moved oy'hand for the proper distance, and sga-in rcclamped in position to begin another but ton-hole,) this groove permitting the slack threads connected with the material at the button-hole just finished. to be drawn freely across the clamp and through the said groove as the stitch utthe small end of the buttonhole is commenced, such drawing upon the said threads finishing the stitch at the small end of the last buttouhole made.

The upper and lower arms each have, projections 27 28, which are acted upon by a cam, 29, mounted loosely on sscrew-threaded post, 30, erected upon the base of, the said cam having a lever, 32, by which to move it. The lever 32 has two cam-pins, 33, to strike the blush 27 and depress the upper arm, h, upon the cloth laid between it and the underarm, h. The first movement of the lover causes the cam 29 to follow down on the screw-stud, and the pins 33, actingon the blocks 27, press-the up per arm against tocoloth, and this done the further movement of the lever and earn spreads the two parts of the under and upper arms to open the button-hole. grooved, as at 31, to receive the pivots of the upperjuws, o r, (see'l ig. 11,) the said upper; jaws at their under sides being serrated, as

are the upper sides of the lower jaws, 2 and so also the right-hand half of the upper jaw (see Fig. 17) is provided with a. channe or groove corresponding with the groove 24 in the said under jaw.

The feed-wheel, the dogs carried, by it, and the pawl e are covered and protected by two plates, on m, the former heing attached to the The upper arm, if, is

bed-plate by screws in, and. the latter to the e05 hub d by screw in, said pint-es m m being shaped the one, m, internally, and the one, .m, externally, substantially as shown in Fig. 7, to leave a guiding-groove, nr, in which moves or travels the stud e, extended downward therein from the base 0 ot the clamp. This groove on is composed of two suhstmr tiall y semicircular parts having different radii from the center of the needle-throat c.

The plate in, at its under side, has attached to it; a clamp-pressing spring, in", which, at its free end, has stroller-stud, m, thatis extended up through a small slot, m, in the plate m,

the said roller-stud acting upon the outer edge.

of the clamp-base e, resting on the said plate and keeping the wall of the elongated central slot, m, of the said base e pressed snugly against the outer sideoi the needletht'oet, th no keeping the material at the stitching-pointnuiformly in position with relation to the 11%- tlle-thront and the descending needle.

The base-plate n of the medic-throat e, nttaohed to the under side of the plate in by the screws n, is slotted centrality, as shown at n, Fig. 19, to receive in it; the loop-spreader o, shaped to resemble a foric, or made U shape, as shown at Figs. 2 and 3, the said spreader being attached to the end of the spreader-car rying slide-rod o hy the screw o,

setters e Piacing the spreader in a groove in the base of the needle-throat piece enables me to cmploy a shorter and therefore much stronger needle than herctoZrc.

The rod 0' is litt-ed to slide in a bearing, 0", and at its rear end is forked, as best shown in Fig. 4, to embrace the shaft A", the said rod having a roller-stud, 0, which enters the groove in the cam or disk a", attached to the said shaft A". The sl ide-rod o, herein shown, has a central opening, a, through which is extended a lag, 1:", fast to the under sideot' the bed-plate A, the said lug receiving in-it the fol Qltllfl-SiI-Llti 0, on which is mounted the elbow-shape" ")oper-leverp, to the longer arm ofwhich isatu. bed the looperp, .The shorter arm of the said levcrp has connected to it the link 1;", the rear end of which (see Figs. 3'and 5) is shaped to embrace the shaft A" and present two parallel acting faces, 28 29, against which strikes the cam a, attached to the said shaft A.

The cams a and a and the disk carrying the crankpin g, may and preferably will be made in one piece, and it is herein supposed to be so made, the said part being attached to the said shaft by the set-screw 30. (See Fig. 5.)

The rear forked end of the link f is made to embrace a hub, 31, between the (min a and the disk the said hub being employed to enable the insertion in it of the crank-pin ,7, thus ati'ording a solid or firm base for it. The disk g keeps the end of the linl: 1 up in place on the cam a. The looper and spreader de- 3 ,s iribed cooperate with the eye-pointed needle and manipulate the upper and under threads as and to form an overseam-stitoh, all as described in my patent of the Unitcd States No. 337,273.

The switch f to retain it.

From the foregoing description it will be understood that the stitching for each buttonhole is commenced at the center of the small end of the cye and while that end is farthest from the operator, which is, the only position in which the operator inserts or removes the work.

The clamp is first moved for substantially a quarter-turn to ovcrst-itch; one-half of the small eye, then moved longitndinally'and overstitched for a distance eqnai to the length of one side of the button-hole, then rotated a semi-rotation. to overstitch'the large end of the h le, then again movedin a straight line to enable the second straight-side ot'the buttonhole to be overstitchcd, and is finally-given a quarter-turn to enable the: last'halt' of the small end of the eye be over-stitched to the point oiconnncneement, when the machine is stoppedwith the small end of the buttonhole miiy be omitted; but I prefer farthest from the operator, leaving the clamp in positicin to he opened-and the material to he removed without further rotation of the clamp by hand or bymcchanism, which movement is commonly made in other button-h0lc-stitching machines employing clamps having-both longitudinal and rotative movements at intervals, or machines wherein the small and of the.

button-liole is barred by long stitches made therein at right angles to the length of the slit constituting the button-hole.

I olaint- 1 1. The combination, substantially as described, in a buttonhole-stitching machine, of the bed-platthaving the hub provided with recesses 5 6,,the clotlrclamp provided with the stud r', the cover-plates in m, the feedwhccl provided at its upper side with the cam-groove f3 and dogs, and at its lower side with groovtisfff the lever20, having atoll, 21, the pawl, the pawl-carrier, the arm M and means to turn it, and the adjusting-screws 18 l9,to cooperate with the said lever-20, whereby the extent of movement of the clamp may be varied during the stitching of the buttonhole.

2. In a outton-hol'e-stitching machine, the clamp provided with the stud e, the plates at m, the bed-plate having the notchedhub, and the feed-wheel having'tlie dogs and groove 2 atits upper side and at its under side the grooves fff", and the switch f, combined with means to automatically rotate the said feed-wheel-at one speed while the straight sidesof the button-hole are being stitched,and

at two different speeds while the ends of the. button-hole are being stitched, the movement of the said feed whilethe small end of the I bnttoirhole is being stitched being faster than when either the straight sides. or the large end of the button-hole are beingstitched, sub

stantially as described.

3. In a bntton-hole-stitching machinethe bed-plate having the hub recessed, as at 5 and 6, provided at its upper side with the groove- 2 and dogs 3 and4, and at its under side with the grooves fff, and the switch f ,.combincd with means to automatically rotate-the said feed-wheel at one speed while the straight sides of the button-hole are being stitc'hed,and'

attwo(liticrentspccdswhilethecndsofthcbutton-hole are being stitched, and with a clamp to hold the material, the said clamp having a pin to enter the said groove 2, and with stitch forming mechanism to stitch the button-hole and leave the clamp-in position with the large eye in the material,directly in front o f-the operator, substantially asdescribed.

4. In a buttonhole-stitching machine; the feed-wheel, the pawl-carrier 12, the'pawl thereon, and the arm 14, having the projec- .tion 17, combined with means to operate the said arm, the said projection acting against and causing the said pawl-carrier to move in unison with it in one direction, and with the adinstingscrew n, to limit the maximum backward throw of the pawl-carrier, sul'istantially as described.

5. The combination, with stitch-forming mechanism, substantial ly as deseribeththe bedplate having a recessed hub, the clamp to hold, spread, and carry the material, and the feed-wheel grooved at one side at 2and atits other side at f f fl, end dogs carried by the said feed-wheel to rotate the said clamp at intervals, of means to automatically rotate the said feed-wheel twice during the working of eaoh'outtowhole, whereby the bntton hole is over'stitehed entirely about its edge, inelncl' irzg not'only its two straight sides, but the large andjs'nioll eyes constituting the ends of the said bnttoohole.

6. In a button-hole-stitehing machine, the base e, the screw-threaded postlastened to it, and the arms h and h, provided with blocks 27, combined. with the hollow earn screwthreaded and placed on, the said post, end with the lever attached thereto and having the cam studs or projections 33 3 3, to operiite substantially as described.

i'. In a button-holestitehing machine, the arms lfh of the olamp,provided with a groove, 24, to permit the rendering between the said arnisof the thread extended to a button-hole when aseeon'dbntton-holeis to be con] meneed, substantially as described.

(l-1n a bntton-hole-stitehing machine, the needlebar-eorrying heed b", pivoted to the overhanging arm at b", and means to reciproeate the needle-bar, combined with the link I), the horizontally-vihrating lever b, and means to move the said lever, whereby the needlebar carrying head is moved transversely to the length of the plate,[ substantially as described. l

9, lo a bntton-holo slitehiz-ig maohine, at

needlehar provided with an eye pointed needle, means to operate the needle-bar, a head to guide the noedlebar, the said being pivoted to the overhanging arm b", to vibrate at right angles to the length ofthe bed-plate, the link I), connected to the said hole, the horizrontelly-vihrating lever b, and means to more it, combined with a cloth holding and moving clamp and Witlljt feed-wheel, and with menus, substantially as described, to operate the same at different speeds and to completely rotate the said clamp, eo'eh semi-rotation thereot" being at different speeds to enable both ends of the button-hole to be finished with roiled ends, substantially as descri'oedfi 10. no bottomhole-stitching moxrhine, :1

needle-bar an e *eointod needle therein. end -o scribed, and the looper and spreader, snhstantially as described, arrangedbelow the bedplate and clamp, the bed-plate, the recessed hnb d", and the leed-wheel provided with the groove 2, the dogs 3 21210.4, and with grooves ff 'f at its lower side, and means to operate the said feed-wheel intermittingly, combined with the clamp to hold the material, the said clamp having a stud to enter the said groove, and with the two plates m m, connected to the said bed-plate and to the said hub toleave a space, m, between them, in whichlthe stud. e

may'travel'while the olmnpis being moved both longitudinallyond in the are of a circle,

as setforth.

12. The overhanging arm, the head pivoted. v

thereto on a part parallel to the length of the said arm, end having bearings for the needleber and slotted at b, and the needle-bar and means to; reciprocate it, combined with the link b", adinstalily oonneetedto the said head, the lever it", meant to Vlblfittfiiif and the pin if, to eourleet the said link and lover, substantially as described.

13. Ina bnttomhole-stitchi21g machine, the nprightshaft A", its attached cams, the link. 11, the elbow lever and its attached looper, and the fulcrum-stud; n, eomhi lied wi th thespreadei and its slide-harm, provided with an opening andsorronnding the said. l'nlernm Stud, substantially as do eribed.

in testimony whereofl havesigned my name to this specification in the presenee of'two subscribing witnesses.

' JOHN W. LUFlKlN.

Vlitnessgfs:

G. W. GREGORY, F. German. 

